The Squaretail

Brook Trout by Winslow Homer

Cleve would forget he’ d told me about the squaretail, the brook trout he’d caught as a boy on the farm in Wiscasset, Maine, and tell me the story again. He must have told me twenty times. But I’d let him tell it again. I didn’t mind. He had given me my first fly rod, and I figured I could spare the time.

I never fished much as a boy. But soon after I married Cleve’s daughter, I started going with him and Morrill, my brother-in-law. My job was to run the boat, to put it where my in-laws could cast.

We often fished the Rangeley Lakes region, from Beaver Mountain to the Little Kennebago River. On any given day, while fishing we might see deer, otters or a beaver. Or a heron, osprey or kingfisher. Sometimes a pair of loons would surface and we’d be serenaded by their throaty calls. Once, in a stream, we heard splashing ahead. Pretty soon a young bull moose came around the bend and walked past us, not ten feet away.

The thing about brook trout is that once you catch one, other fish look ugly. Brookies, or squaretails, are small trout in general, but their sides are prettier than a church window. Their minute scales are flecked with yellow and red spots, sometimes with blue haloes. When spawning, males have orange-red sides and bellies.

Eventually, I got tired of steering the boat so my in-laws could fish, and I picked up a spare fly rod. “Put on a number 12 Hornberger,” Cleve said. That done, I started whipping the line back and forth. First I snagged it in the alders, then on Morrill’s hat. “Easy, now,” he said.

After a good deal of practice, I dropped the fly  gently down on the surface and got a hit, then lost it. But at the mouth of the brook, now fishing the Hornberger wet,  I brought in my first catch. I stared in amazement at the eight-inch brookie in my hand.

That autumn, after the fishing season, Cleve had a massive stroke. He lay on the hospital bed in Maine Medical Center, unable to move. Then one day I saw his thumb twitch. Miraculously, and with intense will, not to mention speech and physical therapy, he came back, but not all the way.

In the winter months I played Cribbage with him, making small talk as he struggled to shuffle and deal. By spring he was doing much better. He had learned to sign his checks with his left hand. He was also learning to drive again. He never got his fine-motor movement back, so important to fly fishing, but that didn’t keep him from trying.

In July we I asked Cleve if he was ready to go fishing again. Morrill and I helped Cleve off the dock into the boat. We crossed the lake, entered the stream, then drifted toward our favorite spot. All three of us began casting, but when Cleve hooked one, I quickly reeled in and turned to assist. He brought his fish slowly to the boat, just the way you’re supposed to. “Get the net,” Morrill called out. But I didn’t like using nets, and I reached down to gently lift the brookie in for him. Coming out of the water, the trout leaped in an arc and was gone. If it had been my fish, I would’ve cursed. “There’ll be another one,” was all Cleve said.

In later years, the fish Cleve liked to talk about, more than the salmon or togue, more than the grayling and pike he had caught out in Minnesota, was the 15-inch squaretail he caught when he was a boy, in the stream that wound through the farm before dropping into the Sheepscot River.

At dawn one Sunday morning, he had grabbed his rod and a few night crawlers and headed for the bend where the stream pooled deep. His timing was right. He caught a couple of nine-ten-inchers. Then he crawled out on a tree that bent over the pool and dropped his line straight down where the water was black.

The sudden tug almost pulled him off balance. He inched back down the trunk, then patiently tired the fish before sliding him up on the bank.

It was a beautiful trout, deep in color and thick as a man’s fist. He gathered his trophy and the other two on a string, ran up to the house, knocked on his father’s bedroom door and walked over beside the bed. Tapping his father on the shoulder, he first held out the two smaller trout.

His father squinted at the fish, then rolled over. “Now, how ‘bout this one?” the boy held out the large brook trout. This time his father in one motion swung his legs out from under the bed covers. This was a squaretail worth looking at.

Word got out at church that morning about the boy’s fish, and that afternoon Cleve’s uncle drove over from Damariscotta. “Show me your trout,” he told his nephew. “Too late,” Cleve said. “We et him for lunch.”

Over the next few years, Cleve had a series of smaller strokes and setbacks. But often, when the talk died down, or our thoughts turned to the upcoming season, Cleve would ruminate on that trout. He’d say, “Did I ever tell you about the squaretail I caught in the stream on the farm?”

I figured that trout—rich in symbol and pride—had helped my father-in-law through the hard times , the heart attack, the strokes, the long hours of therapy, the loss of his wife, the loneliness of hospital nights.

A year later, Cleve started losing his memory, or rather began returning to another time. Sometimes he’d get up a 3 a.m., get his things together and announce it was time to go home. One day when we took him out for a drive to town landing, he said he wanted to go home. But when we headed for home, he said it wasn’t the right way.

Eventually he had to go to a nursing home. One of the last times I visited with him, he was waiting for his parents to pick him up.

It’s hard having a conversation with someone with dementia. You want so bad to connect, for yourself as well as for them.

As I sat beside him in his wheelchair, there were no more words. Then I thought of asking him about the brook trout. “Do you remember the squaretail, Dad? The one you caught when you were a boy on the farm?”

He looked at me for a  moment, patiently, I thought. Then he said, simply, quietly, “No.”

I was stunned. Something inside him had let the fish go. I grabbed desperately for the net. It was too late. That magnificent trout, beautiful as a Monet, had simply snapped the leader drawing it to the surface and turned back in a silent rush to the pool’s depths.

A month later, Cleve, too, entered that dark pool. I like to think he found the squaretail again. That his eyes once again lit up at the beautiful colors. But I don’t know. These things are hard to tell.

In Graves Unmarked

Memorial placed in the OBG

In autumn the Old Burying Ground in Stoneham changes its colors. Yellow and orange leaves fall about the gravestones of the founders of our town. The Goulds, Greens, Holtens and Hays. The Spragues, Stevens, Richardsons and Wrights.

But beyond the cluster of 18th and 19th century stones, there are open areas where no markers disrupt the gentle slope of the earth. Here lie those with no status in early Stoneham. Here are buried the town’s paupers, natives and slaves.

On a recent Saturday, thanks to the Stoneham Historical Commission, Stoneham folk gathered  in the Old Burying Ground to remember all those buried in unmarked graves. How many were there? It’s impossible to know, even with radar ground studies. But a scouring of town and church records suggests there were over five hundred.

Who were they, these men and women who, along with our better-off European ancestors, built Stoneham? Who, in the case of slaves, toiled without pay or hope of freedom. Who, in some cases, married, had children and attended church, but were prescribed to the lowest rungs of society?

The first white settlers in Stoneham, then called Charlestown End, arrived in the mid-17th century, about two decades after English colonists led by John Winthrop founded the Massachusetts Bay Colony. Not long after, came the slaves.

The earliest record I could find of slaves in the Stoneham area is in Elbridge Goss’ History of Melrose. It appears in a 1653 order from the General Court, stipulating that a slave owned by Job Lane, named Ebedmeleck, must be punished for “stealing victuals and breaking open a window on the Lord’s day.” He shall “be whipt with five stripes.”

In the century before the American Revolution, at least nine families in Stoneham owned slaves, including the Greens, who settled in the eastern and southeastern area of our town. The Green farm, extending from the Melrose line to Pond Street, would be the home of five generations of the Greens. Forty-two Greens would be buried in the Old Burying Ground.

An inventory of Captain Jonathan Green’s possessions in 1761 includes, along with 3 horses, 6 oxen, 9 cows, and 20 sheep, “2 servants for life.”

Jonathan Green’s name also shows up in the indenture contract binding a 7-year-old girl to the Green family for eleven years. My column of September 11 tells her story.

The Rev. Ken McGarry offers dedication prayer for all those buried in unmarked graves in the Old Burying Ground in Stoneham.

Indenture in New England was one way of dealing with poor, illegitimate or otherwise destitute children. If they were fortunate, they learned a trade, or, in the case of young women, found a husband after completing their term. Adults were also indentured, often as house servants.  In an inventory of the late town minister, James Osgood, is found, along with his other possessions, one Negro woman and one white servant.

Towns also had poor houses, as did Stoneham, although it was customary for officials to “warn out” paupers coming into town, so they would not become a drain on resources.

The earliest mention of an almshouse in Stoneham is a note by Silas Dean that in 1760 town leaders explored working with Reading and Woburn to establish a “work house,” a place for the poor.

The next reference I found is in William B. Stevens’ History of Stoneham, where he records the 1823 purchase of a farm in northeast Stoneham as a place for the poor. As in communities throughout New England, poor farms were funded by towns and cities at public expense. But they were also working homes for the able bodied who could either farm, cook, do laundry, or work at a trade. Here you might find a widow, a disabled or indigent worker, or an orphan.

As Stoneham’s population increased, a larger facility was needed. In 1852 the town purchased 17 acres on Elm Street and began construction of a new Almshouse. Additional acres were later purchased, and the house was enlarged and a shop added where the shoemakers in the home could work. In 1890 the Stoneham Almshouse had 30 residents. Today, it is our Senior Center.

The Old Burying Ground was also the burial place of Native Americans. We know of two because it made the papers. In February of 1813, ruffians murdered a Penobscot couple that had set up camp by Spot Pond. Their names were Nicholas and Sally Crevay. I tell their story in my book, If the Shoe Fits: Stories  of Stoneham, Then & Now.

The next time you visit the Old Burying Ground, pause a moment at the beautifully designed memorial placed there by the Historical Commission. It honors the hundreds buried there in unmarked graves, people who lived among us and helped build our town. As we celebrate our Tricentennial, it’s the right thing to do.